Grateful in Gladstone

What? I’m comfy!!
Luna enjoys some attention from the Triple M ladies!
Driving Oz with the Black Dog meets the Cub Club!
Ken presents Paul with the awesome air compressor
Ken from Gladstone Nissan
Brent from Opposite Lock Gladstone


We spent a night in a cabin, thanks to Poinciana Tourist Park in Yeppoon. It was nice to have air conditioning, TV and our own bathroom! Every so often it is a real treat to not have to set up camp, and just relax in a room instead.

The next morning was our earliest start for a while. The alarm ringing at 5.45am was not a welcome sound, but we needed to be out and on the road just after seven, and Paul also had an interview to do over the phone with Triple M Central Queensland just before leaving. We jumped in the Legend and headed through Rockhampton towards Gladstone, where the Nissan dealership had organised a meet and greet. The roadworks we encountered were unexpected and caused us a bit of stress – we don’t like being late for anything! Through the magic of Facebook messaging, we were able to let people know that we were going to be delayed, which made us feel a bit better. It was great to hear the interview played on the radio while we were on the road though!

We arrived in Gladstone, and were met by Errol & Ken from Nissan, ladies from Triple M (who brought a bag of goodies for the kids), and Stephen & Debbie Mills, who run the Cub Club for Cub Campers owners. What a great welcoming party! It was just great chatting with everyone about the Legend, the Cub, the Cape, and of course, our Cause, and Luna didn’t appreciate the scratches and pats at all .. hehe. Anita from Channel 7 news in Gladstone turned up too, and it was a very busy time! Ken gave us the very impressive air compressor, which Nissan and Opposite Lock teamed up to provide. He also wanted to give us a chicken, which had randomly turned up next to the Legend and was entertaining the children, but we figured that Luna may not want to share the limelight she is currently enjoying, so Ken decided to try and find its real owner instead.

After leaving Nissan, we popped in to see Brent at Opposite Lock, who hadn’t been able to make it to the meet and greet. We wanted to say thanks in person, for contributing to the compressor for our trip. We do love looking at 4WD stores, and have had our eye out for a sand flag for some of our outback travel. When we asked Brent for a price, we were shocked when he handed us the one from the shop floor – even more support! He’s a good bloke, and we were really pleased to hear that business has been good for him. He had been so busy that he couldn’t leave the shop, so that made our short visit even more important.

We grabbed lunch, and stopped briefly to see Stephen and Debbie to get a sticker for the Cub. He’s made us Honourary Members of the Cub Club! We are super touched by this gesture, and promised to give any other Club members we encounter, some cheek on his behalf.

It was another couple of hours to Bargara, near Bundaberg, for our stopover. The Bargara Beach Caravan Park had offered us a powered site for the night, and we were so completely drained when we got there. It was an excellent sized site, and near the camp kitchen and amenities. We always appreciate that, taking into account the kids!

Aside from the early start, it was such a huge day – radio interview, meeting and greeting, new sponsors, tv interview, and many discussions. Gladstone has had suicides and mental health problems, prominently affecting first responders and also farmers suffering with the drought. It’s been a warm dry winter in Queensland, and they are hoping fervently for good rain before summer arrives. With the picturesque beaches and scenery, it’s easy to forget that most of the state of Queensland is drought declared. The old tourism slogan, “Queensland – beautiful one day, perfect the next”, now seems so shallow when you consider that the definition of “perfection” can be subjective to those whose living is reliant on enough wet stuff falling from the sky to make crops grow and keep stock alive. We are grateful for the support we received in Gladstone, and though we can’t make drought breaking rain fall over the state, we can continue to highlight the strain that farmers are under, and remind everyone to check in on your friends and family. If you’re worried about them or haven’t heard from them for a while, go and lump on their doorstep with a packet of bickies, and tell them to put the kettle on. In this world of impersonal social media and technology, the personal touch could make the world of difference to someone you care about.

Meaningful Mackay

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“Oh my gosh, that’s US on that sign!!” was the exclamation as we drove past The Leap Hotel towards Mackay. We’d heard that there was a sign advertising our visit, and it was strange but thrilling to see our event advertised for the following day.

We were on a high then for the rest of the day, and zoomed through set up at the Big 4 Mackay Marine holiday park. Ilona had given us a large corner site, and we even had a key to an ensuite! That was a fantastic surprise for us all. The kids noticed the waterslide and water park straightaway, and kept asking if it was Monday yet, so they could go and enjoy the free pancake breakfast in the camp kitchen!

Nerves were running high as we drove back out to The Leap on Sunday morning. Luna kept nudging Paul’s elbow and arm while he was driving, sensing that his anxiety was on the rise.

The Leap is named after an historical event which happened at the top of Mount Mandarana. “As legend has it, in 1867 settlers decided they’d had enough of local Aborigines spearing their cattle for food. One raid in particular caused so much consternation among the farmers that matters came to a head and police got involved. The troopers tracked the natives to the top of the mountain that looms where the hotel stands today,” says the history. “From high up near the clouds, a tribeswoman named Kowaha reportedly hurled herself from the sheer cliff face, rather than surrender to authorities. With her baby in her embrace, she leapt from Mt Mandarana and fell to her death far, far below. Incredible as it may seem, the baby girl survived her and was taken into care by the wife of a trooper. The Leap Baby, as she came to be known, remained in the district until her death in 1928. Since that fateful day of confrontation the area has become known simply as ‘The Leap’, a place where visitors come to learn of and ponder about the mysteries surrounding events in Mackay’s heart-rending past.”

The Leap Community Club, through their representative Kayleen, had been in contact with us for some time about doing some fundraising for us when we came to visit. It was wonderful to meet her in person! Her husband, Chris, manned the barbeque for the sausage sizzle, with Kayleen and Jenny on salads and raffles duty. It’s a busy place on a lovely sunny Sunday! Luna attracted the attention of a motorcyclist who’d stopped in at the hotel as part of a club ride. We chatted with Bryce for quite a while, as the kids made repeat visits to the bbq for more sausages. Bryce is extremely personable, and our conversation touched on many topics – animals, assistance dogs, mental health, peer support, management styles. He gave us his business card and offered to see if there was anything he could do to source a newer laptop to replace our old one whose battery has failed. Even better, Bryce then went a bought a sausage in bread before rejoining his club on the ride.

Kayleen presented us with a donation of $500 for our charities, achieved through raffles and the sausage sizzles. We were blown away by their generosity! It was a lovely couple of hours spent on the verandah of this historic building. If you are headed to Mackay, please drop in at The Leap Hotel and say hello from us!

We had become quite stressed by the creeping failure of our remaining laptop, now only functioning when plugged in to mains power. Repeated attempts to source a replacement had been fruitless and frustrating. Imagine our surprise when we answered a call on Monday morning from Bryce, who told us that he had organised a refurbished laptop from his workplace at the North Queensland Bulk Handling Ports Corporation (NQBP)! All before he’d finished his first coffee! After a quick catch up session with Kirstine’s aunt, we met with Bryce, or rather, Captain Bryce, at the NQBP. This lovely and modest man is responsible for bringing in cargo ships to the Port of Mackay, taking control of the navigation after flying out to the ships by helicopter. Our jaws dropped, but Bryce assured us it wasn’t so glamourous at 2 o’clock in the morning when called out!

Everyone at NQBP was so friendly and welcoming, and it was a lovely visit. Photos were taken, we admired the marina views from one of the conference rooms, looked at amazing aerial shots of the area, and the kids were given a stash of biscuits to take home. We still can’t believe that this happened after a chance meeting at the Leap Hotel at the fundraiser!

Out grocery shopping later, we had an email from Harvey Norman in Mackay, who had responded to a request Paul had sent before we arrived in town. The manager, Adam, had offered a substantial discount on a high end laptop capable of running the video editing software that Videocraft provided us. We had a limited budget, and the donation from the Rotary Club of Mount Isa, and were able to leave the store with a machine which Paul can now view and edit the 4K production quality footage that we have recorded but not been able to watch! Our sincere thanks to Adam, Emma and Cassie for their patience and support.

Our visit was topped off by Paul interviewing with ABC Tropical North radio as we packed up camp this morning. Meech was very interested in the book that we will be writing, and asked if Mackay will be getting a mention. We can guarantee it certainly will! Of course, now Paul can edit footage from the DJI Mavic Pro and our Videocraft equipment on his own laptop, while Kirstine takes care of the written work on hers from NQBP.

We feel incredibly blessed and grateful to our sponsors and supporters in Mackay. We had meaningful conversations with locals, who’ve all been touched in some way by mental illness, and our trip has resonated with them. Thank you Mackay!

Positivity in pensive Proserpine

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**** TRIGGER WARNING – natural disasters ****


Suicide numbers have risen in Proserpine and the surrounding area following Cyclone Debbie in March this year. The world has been so focussed on Hurricane Irma and events overseas, that we have already forgotten that our own beautiful Whitsunday region was ravaged and is still not recovered. Residents were left with damaged homes & businesses, work places were also affected and so the financial repercussions of the most dangerous storm since Cyclone Yasi (remember banana prices??) were compounded. Some have homes but are not allowed to live in them till repaired, and are paying the eye-watering prices for rentals charged by owners whose vision is solely comprised of dollar signs.

During our brief stay in Proserpine, we saw countless tarps over rooves and buildings, some businesses closed, others with chalkboards out stating that they are still “recovering from Cyclone Debbie”, and are trying to trade with as much normality as possible.

Rod Grittner Nissan serviced the Legend for us while we were there, and Anne was herself a Legend in organising everything at short notice. She and Liz were happy we’d come to be seen in town, as they know there have been more locals take their lives as the effects of Debbie continue to drag on. Their own building was damaged and needs to be rebuilt. They, too, are still waiting.

We took a drive to Airlie Beach and Shute Harbour, and were delighted to see that the Lagoon had opened again in the last couple of days. The journalist we met with, told us that it meant that the businesses nearby were feeling hopeful again – there were actually people walking down the street – possible customers! Some insurance companies appear to be dragging their feet, some residents haven’t even seen assessors yet, others have had their insurance companies claim that they were “underinsured” and therefore offer to pay only a percentage of the costs to repair/rebuild. It was so infuriating for us to hear this. Paul has had a lot of experience with natural disasters, and understands the trauma that comes not only from the event, but the drawn out recovery process. It’s no wonder that the community’s mental health has taken a hit in the last few months.

It was truly inspirational then to meet Joy at Gunna Go Caravan Park, just outside Prossy. Joy and her family had donated a powered site to us for our stay, and it was just lovely being there. Whilst their park sustained damage in the cyclone, Joy is steadfastly moving forward and wanting to put the storm behind them and focus on their business. The kids loved the showers because there were plenty of hooks low enough for them to hang up their toiletry bags, clothes and towels. The undercover area is a wonderful place to sit and relax during the day, and between 4-6pm becomes a licensed bar for guests and locals. Paul even met a man who was working in Queensland, but was from the same suburb and street that Paul used to live in once!

We watched a possum walk a tightrope over our heads on a powerline, and the cane fields aflame at night, the orange glow visible from our camper. Though the Proserpine River area has a large population of crocodiles, we are yet to see one of them!

The damage to primary and tourism industries in the Whitsundays was severe, but they are fighting back. Joy lives up to her wonderful name, and epitomises the fighting spirit in the region. They are sticking together, moving forward, and determined to put Cyclone Debbie firmly in the history books.

To save the region, the lives and livelihoods of Proserpine and the Whitsunday area, VISIT, drive through and buy a coffee or some groceries, or even better, STAY at a local caravan park (don’t haggle on price), and let’s hope the cane harvest is bountiful!

Taking in Townsville

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If you are in need of fuel in Cairns, go to the BP at Earlville. Troy is a customer service gem, and he can keep his cool when it’s busy and he’s the only staff member there!

It’s a pretty drive down to Townsville from Cairns, back in banana and sugar cane country again. As we were going back through Innisfail, we had to stop and get some of those sweet bananas again. This time Kirstine also spotted a stand for sugar cane juice nearby, so walked back to investigate. The vendor told her that the sugars in the cane juice are unprocessed, and therefore better for you. She added fresh lime juice to cut through the sweetness, and it is now one of Kirstine’s favourite refreshing beverages – not that you can find it very often! The machine used to squeeze the juice from the hard green cane looked incredibly vicious, not a juicer that you might find in your kitchen or local café. This one had toothed rollers, and seemingly no gap in between them. They were incredibly effective though – you certainly wouldn’t put a finger in there. The kids had a taste of the juice, but the vendor also sent me on my way with some pieces of cane for the kids to chew/suck on. That was a new experience for them!

We were very happy to arrive in Townsville and meet the staff at the Coral Coast Top Holiday Park. Marijke is a delight, and made us feel very welcome. They generously provided us with a powered site for the duration of our stay. There is a small resident possum family at the park, and that night Marijke brought the children some apple slices and carrot to put out at the tree they like to hang out in, just behind our camper. Whilst the children were in bed when the possums came out, Kirstine was still up and about, and was pleasantly surprised to be able to handfeed both mama & baby possum. Granted, mama possum mistook her finger for a piece of apple and gave it a nibble, but soon realised the error when the real apple was offered.

We ventured up Castle Hill, not on foot, and enjoyed the views, and were most amused to get back in the car and be listening to “Castle on the Hill” by Ed Sheeran on the way back down! Paul was having a difficult afternoon with flashbacks to recent nightmares and past events, so it was a quiet afternoon for him and Luna. Kirstine took the kids to visit a long time friend, and our kids got along famously! It’s like they’d known each other for years!

Before leaving, we were invited to an interview with ABC North Queensland radio. That one went live to air, which was a first for Kirstine. It was wonderful to be so warmly received.

Townsville has several groups that are focussing on suicide prevention, and though their calendars didn’t align with ours, we find it very positive to follow their activity on Facebook. The fact that we had a total of three caravan parks offer us a site while we visited, is indicative in our opinion, of the strong community drive towards better mental health for their residents.

Cairns, Coconuts and elusive Cassowaries


Daintree River ferry crossing












The burn offs around North Queensland have been extensive in the lead up to Summer. We encountered one as we turned off towards Cairns from Cooktown, taking the coastal route. The fires are usually “set and forget” type ones, the humidity, low winds and low population density creating good conditions for clean burn. We pulled up as the fire was burning into the long grass at the side of the road, the wind having picked up in the valley we were entering. Kirstine intended to take a photo, but everyone (except Paul who’s seen it all before) was transfixed by the dancing flames and ash swirling in the convection currents. Paul said we needed to move. Whilst not in any danger, the continued heat which we could all feel through the windows, could have damaged the signwriting on the Legend. We started to move, with Kirstine filming the fire. The film became a dash cam style recording of a near head on with a speeding ute, flying around the corner on the wrong side of the road, and BLIND to oncoming traffic because of the fire. They corrected, we swore, the kids did too. Had we not paused briefly to watch the flames and prepare to take a video, that ute would have met us head on. Do we really need to explain the terminology to describe people who drive like that??

It was a very pretty trip through the Wet Tropics region, heading towards the Daintree National Park. We were most amused by the choice of mailboxes for residents in one particular area – everything from empty LPG cylinders painted and dressed like chickens, to microwaves!! I was particularly impressed with the microwave idea. What else do we do with them when they die, except throw them out? Here in Queensland, they are the ideal mailbox – spider, snake and weather proof!

The coastal route turned out to be a scenic, but challenging drive, particularly in the section before Cape Tribulation. Steep inclines around corners, with realistically only one lane, gravel and dust, low creek crossings. Usually when we know what to expect from a road, Paul has time to prepare himself mentally for it. This hadn’t been the case, and Kirstine was very glad to have not been driving. Paul was constantly switching from 2H to 4H, and from Drive to 2nd or 1st, driving as sympathetically for the Legend as possible. To simply stay in Drive and use the brakes for the steep down hills, would have wrecked the brakes on the Legend and the Cub. Paul is an accomplished driver, and Kirstine was exhausted just watching him, let alone his mental and physical exhaustion as we finally finished the mountain section.

We were all on Cassowary watch as we travelled through the Daintree, with plenty of signs indicating their crossing areas, and even additional signs for recent crossings! The speed bumps slow you down to 20km/h, and on top of the speed bumps were additional rocks, to ENSURE you slow down in case of cassowaries! As yet, the Cassowary count is at Zero.

Our replacement 240V battery charger was at the Big 4 Coconut Holiday Resort in Cairns when we arrived. These wonderful people had provided us with two nights at a powered site in this fantabulous resort. Yes, fantabulous, it’s a word! The first thing they did was take us on a tour of the park in a Nemo buggy. Luna lay at Paul’s feet and poked her head over the side to see where we were going. Massive water park, separate pool, kids playground, minigolf, outdoor movies every night, plus a huge array of activities for families and kids. It’s no wonder that this place is listed as one of the best resorts in Australia! We were nearly as excited as the kids!

We had a large site right by the camp kitchen, and got to work setting up. The Legend was catching everyone’s eye as they walked past, as Paul had parked it perpendicular to the camp. Being so exhausted from the unexpected driving challenges, we ordered in tea, and had an early night. Paul was utterly wrecked on all levels.

The next morning it was time for some school work while we caught up on blogs. Thankfully we had some free wifi at the resort, with very reasonable prices for data packages. The deal was, the kids spend the morning doing school work, and after lunch we go to the waterpark. Talk about a learning incentive!

At the park, Paul and I thoroughly enjoyed watching the kids play in the water, and lamented the fact that they didn’t really exist in this fashion when we were young! They all waited impatiently for the giant pineapple to fill with water, and dump it all over them. It was brilliant, even if we were jealous!

In exploring the camp kitchen, and the free herb garden next to it (!!), we spotted some flyers advertising decals for caravans. We had been talking about adding our website and UHF radio details to the Legend and Cub, and this was just too good! After some text messages sent around cooking tea and children, we met with Karen, who gave us a half price deal in recognition of our cause. Details sorted, we met up the next morning as they were leaving. Once the decals are on the Cub, we’ll take some pics and show you. Karen was delightful, and though she does this as a hobby while she travels with her family, we were super impressed with her work!

Kirstine went to a local Stocklands and found a gem of a fruit and veg shop. We are totally in love with the prices of healthy produce in coastal Queensland. It’s so easy to eat healthily here, as so much of the food is grown here.

On our last morning at the resort, Kirstine got the kids out of bed to go to reception at 7.30am to feed the fish and turtles in the pond. They were so excited to feed pellets to the turtles, and watch them gather to feed.

It was just one more amazing feature of the Big 4 Coconut Holiday Park experience. The kids even got a bag of jellybeans each as we left. We will be back for a family holiday, and recommend it to anyone!

Cooktown, quicksand and recovery

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Cooktown is a lovely place to spend some time, and it’s on the list to return to when we have “free time”.. not that we know when that will be, but we can dream!

Our first morning back, Paul set up school work with the littlies, and I went for a swim in the pool with our eldest daughter. It was relaxing in so far as Kirstine didn’t have to constantly be within arms reach, as she normally is when all three kids are in the water. A chance to recoup and recover!

After visiting the Captain James Cook memorial statue, commissioned by BP Australia as a gift to the people of Cookstown for the bicentennial, we grabbed lunch from the Cooks Landing Kiosk. Super fresh fish and a suitably family sized portion of chips. We’d been telling the kids that we’d feed them seafood in Queensland, so this was once promise fulfilled! A walk on Cherry Tree Beach was a must after such a big meal, and Paul even got to fly the DJI Mavic Pro! Kirstine and the kids, in the meantime, put their toes in the Coral Sea (or rather a shallow pool left by the tides), so that we could tick that off the list. The water was beautifully warm, and it’s so unfair that these beaches are simply unsafe to swim at. The waters beckon and tempt, but between the stingers and crocs, the enjoyment would be lost to sheer primal fear.

We had a visitor at our site that evening, who was a friend of the man we met at Lakeland on the way to the Cape. A chaplain at a local school, it was unbelievable to find that word of mouth of our trip had spread, and lead to someone recognising the Legend and coming to say hello! Morgan had hoped to help facilitate a visit to the school, but a recent bout of extra curricular visitors meant that they really had to focus on the learning again. We certainly appreciated his thoughts and effort!

A visit to Elim Beach and the Coloured Sands was a morning’s day trip, and was thoroughly enjoyable. Located within Hope Vale Aboriginal Community lands, a nominal day visitor fee gave us access to go and explore. We’d already read several social media posts about visitors who ignore advice from locals and signposts, and drive on the beach off the tracks. Quicksand is not something that most people think about, and the recovery fee of $2000 is truly indicative of the danger involved in not only retrieving a stuck/vehicle before the tide and crocs come back in (if they didn’t stay in the mangroves already), but also the danger to the person who goes to effect the recovery. Please, if you visit, listen to the advice (you’ll get it if you go and pay the fee at the camp site as you ethically should!), stay high on the beach, use existing tracks and don’t make new ones.

The Coloured Sands are so very photogenics, and were it not for the proximity of the water to the cliff face, we may have enjoyed a stroll along the beach. Instead we got the Legend back to solid dry land, and Paul & Kirstine went back to fly the drone. As yet, Paul has not been able to capture any film of a saltwater croc, and it’s become a bit of a “thing” to try and find one. Paul took one step too far towards the water (and we were there at low tide), only four metres or so from the safe driving track, and sunk up to his ankle in quicksand. Obviously he stepped back and decided against going closer, letting the DJI Mavic Pro do the travel for him.

We did try and explore tracks past the opposite side of the camp, but the mud map we’d been given was very rough, and the tracks were very soft sand and slightly overgrown, so we turned around and headed for home.

We stopped in at the Cornetts IGA for some supplies. Kirstine really liked this supermarket, and had some entertaining chats with the staff. A new conversation started when she got back to the Legend, and we had a gorgeous couple chatting with Paul and the kids. This gentleman has much the same illness as Paul, his partner is his carer, and they were very interested in mental health assistance dogs. We stood talking for a good half hour, and it was almost like talking to ourselves in many respects. The pain of the person suffering the mental illness, and the abiding worry of the Carer for their loved one.

Buying ½ a kilo of cooked fresh prawns from the seafood man who visited every afternoon was a treat for the kids. As it turned out, in the camp kitchen they became quite adept at peeling the prawns, and with the number that Cooper ate, we were sure he was going to turn into a prawn! While we were there, we each spoke to members of three couples travelling together. One spoke of his travels in Africa, where he said that he has never experienced the same levels of mental health issues as we do in western cultures. Paul explained Luna’s role in our lives, and how she enables him to try and function more easily in society. We were quite taken aback when one of the gentlemen said that all of the people at the table were involved in the medical field, and Paul had educated them about Mental Health Assistance Dogs.

Every conversation we have with people, will stay with them and no doubt be discussed with others in the social circle. Most people love dogs and believe in their therapeutic value, but few understand how highly trained Mental Health Assistance Dogs are, and the demand for them.

The wildlife at the camp was wonderfully entertaining , with the exception of the handful of midgies that chomped on us. What is the purpose of those little blighters I wonder? They are far too miniscule and we only had a few. We know of people who’ve been in other locations at other times of the year and been partially devoured by the nasty pests! We even watched a spider wasp drag a paralysed spider twice its size across the campsite and to its nest. We didn’t go looking for that one! Spotlighting for bandicoots, a visit from a tawny frog mouth, hilarious brush turkeys racing through the grounds, and even a python reported near the amenities block! We didn’t see the python, but did check that our tree frog friends were safe and sound before we left Cooktown..again 

The Legend of the Cape – final part

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Having a fridge not charging properly necessitated an early departure from Punsand Bay. The upside to this (because Kirstine always tries to find the silver lining), is that we had an extra day to make our way back to Cooktown.

Pau had also determined that the Anderson plug on the Legend was faulty, also not helping with trying to keep the fridge functioning! Using a plug from the extension lead we carry, he was able to “Macgyver” a solution in 10 minutes at the side of the road. It helps to have some mechanical skills if you’re going to the Cape!

Kirstine drove the Legend & Cub onto the Jardine River ferry this time, and again, no crocodiles were there to wave to us. We considered drawing straws to see who might go in to let them know we wanted a photo, but as the crossing takes less than 2 minutes, we had to cut our losses and drive on .. hehe. We were super thrilled to see the photogenic little dingo from our initial crossing, turn up again to watch the humans in their motorised metal boxes with round feet, go over the water. Paul had been hoping to fly the DJI Mavic Pro over the Jardine to spy some crocs, but it was surprisingly windy, and aside from a water landing being really bad for drones in a permanent sense, there were other toothy reasons for not going near the water if Paul lost contact with the drone.

We had booked to stay at Elliot Falls, and had a surprise in store for the kids. Our first stop was at Fruit Bat Falls, a sublime freshwater swimming hole rated highly as a “must see” by all who visit. There were 3 vehicles in the car park as we arrived, but as we got organised to walk down to the falls, visitors returned to their cars and left. We had the entire Fruit Bat Falls to ourselves!!  Cape York has been very good to us.

The crystal clear green-hued waters pour off a sharp ledge, and exotic ferns line the cliff face. Kirstine went in first, and it took a good ten minutes to overcome the primal fear associated with swimming in Far North Queensland, when we’d become so accustomed to staying away because of salties. Eventually logic won over fear, and we all entered the water to swim under th3e waterfalls. All except Luna, that is. She was NOT impressed at having to stay tied up, doomed only to observe, not swim. In hindsight we could have thrown her in, as we were the only ones there, but we respect the rules about service dogs in these locations, so Luna just had to deal with it! As did the kids when we sat them out with Luna so we could have five minutes of peace in this romantic location. Kiss under a waterfall? Tick!

We didn’t want to leave this serene location, but camping isn’t permitted there, and we’d booked for Elliott Falls (another safe swimming spot). We stayed in our swimmers, anticipating another swim once camp was set up.

Imagine our dismay when our short trip to the camp site was interrupted by a 50m long, deep water crossing – part of the Old Telegraph Track (OTT). Not on our GPS, maps or camp guide, there was no mention of a water crossing to get to the falls. Creeks are one thing, but this was no creek.

Three other vehicles (not towing) arrived, and we spoke about the crossing. Two decided to go ahead, and made it through the water, which was over the bonnet of each 4WD. Paul wisely chose not to put the Legend or Cub at risk. We don’t own either of them! We were disappointed to have to miss the campsite and more swimming, but erred on the side of caution for our sponsors.

We decided to go to Bramwell Junction, an hour away. Whilst otherwise uneventful, we did have a GIANT feral pig trot across the road in front of us. There were only two other vans at Bramwell Junction, and we parked next to a huge shelter as there were rainclouds above. Tea was burgers from the roadhouse, by the light of our Lightforce LED strip, a breeze moving the air to keep us cool. It was a wonderful way to end a RARE relaxing family afternoon.

Waking up to the view through the Cub Camper to the termite mounds at dawn, was sublime. A quick pack up saw us continue, destination Musgrave Roadhouse. The roadhouse food along the PDR is really delicious! Most of the prices are pretty good too. Just don’t go wanting to buy 1L of milk, or you’ll pay $6 ….

By evening at Musgrave, the campground was pretty full of interesting characters. We were chuffed to see two other Cubs! By far the highlight of the evening was the feeding of the freshwater crocs at the lake behind the grounds. The caretaker walked through the camp, inviting everyone to come and watch, and the kids (& us) were entranced as these throwbacks to prehistory, crawled onto land, tempted by the meat being thrown to them. Apparently there are 14 of them in the lake, one as big as 6ft! Watching the turtles vie for food with the crocs, and knowing that freshies are generally non-aggressive to humans, I would have been more worried about losing a toe to a turtle if I dipped it into the lake!

It was a restless night. Paul was not in a good headspace, and fell asleep early. Some of our “neighbours” thought it would be hilarious to play music and talk loudly till 10pm. This was unsurprising, considering that their entertainment involved changing song lyrics to incorporate alcohol. It is disappointing when people disturb others, including families with children, through such selfish behaviour. Thankfully it’s not been a regular occurrence – our days are long, so we need as much beauty sleep as we can get!

After breakfasting with the brahmans near the roadhouse, we left for Cooktown. The wonderful Big 4 Cooktown Holiday Park provided us with a powered site for three nights. We were weary, dusty, in need of a shower, and this park was very much a welcome sight, though we did pop in to the laundry to let the two resident tree frogs know that we were back!

The Legend of the Cape – Part 2

gorgeous beach on the eastern cape
Somerset Beach looking across to Albany Island
views of termite hills on the eastern cape
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beach driving
this sweet little fella did a very convincing job of playing dead when I went to move him off the Roma Track so we wouldn’t run him over!
so gorgeous!
the most severely rutted section of the Roma Track – one wheel off the ground equals photo opportunity for the kids!


In an attempt to garner a few minutes of internet, we headed into Bamaga. The fridge was not charging, due to the battery charger having sustained damage, probably due to the corrugations, and Paul was hoping to pick up a replacement. Apparently we weren’t the only ones having trouble, as the local traders had sold out of the basic model, and only had the $300 ones left!! We decided we’d just work around it as best we could, not being able to justify (or afford) a charger for that amount. The kids were distracted by the camp dogs wandering around town, and were a bit distressed to see one or two that appeared to have mange. We explained to the kids that dogs aren’t seen as companions in the same way as we’re used to. It was an eye opener for them.

That evening we had some rain, and whilst so many people sheltered in their campers/tents, Kirstine was in the middle of cooking tea outside at the time. There is something so enjoyable about being in the rain in the tropics. It wasn’t a torrential downpour, and the rain itself was warm. Once the mind gets over the usual response to “get inside before you get cold and wet” like you have to down south, it made the experience actually enjoyable. Even better, when the breeze picked up again, it cooled the skin.

The kids took a while to get used to the wildlife that moved freely about camp at night, and eventually rejoiced in being able to spot cane toads and bandicoots, almost making a competition of who could “spot one first”! The northern bandicoots are a bit more elusive, but as the kids were sleeping with only the mesh zipped up on their tents, they could lie quietly and watch any that ventured in after dark.

On our last day we decided to go on a bit of an adventure and see some of the eastern Cape. The drive to Somerset Beach was fairly short, though we did have to tackle the Roma Track again (aww…poor Paul having to go off road AGAIN ..hehe). Whilst Somerset was pretty, we kept driving and heading towards Nanthau Beach. We got some brilliant photos there, but the track continuing on around Vallack Point was no longer visible, so perhaps nobody had driven it for a while. Wherever we see that nature has reclaimed a track, we leave it to Her and go back the way we came. Fly Point on the other hand, was amazing! Super windy, and surging seas made it a true elemental experience. We saw another sea turtle surfing the waves, and feel that these creatures have become a bit of a totem for our trip to the Cape.

Back at camp, we took the kids for a swim. Sally had told us that the bore water and salt water chemicals make it look green, but it is clean, and it was wonderfully refreshing! Paul spoke to a couple who used to foster the guide dog puppies, and always had trouble trying to spend time in National Parks. They were happy to hear that the we had had no issues at all, with Luna’s vest, ID and access rights.

As we waited for the pizzas we had ordered (didn’t trust contents of fridge freezer, so had to buy delicious pizzas again), we chatted with a couple from Victoria. They had also experienced a family loss to suicide, and loved that we are travelling and just talking to people about it. They also loved how independent and happy the kids are. After a couple of great discussions, it was fabulous to take our pizzas down to the beach, sit in the soft warm sand, and watch the sun set as we ate.

Not having phone/internet coverage made it difficult to touch base with local groups while we were in the area. This is something we hadn’t counted on. We left messages and emails for the local newspapers, in the hope that they would run a story after our visit. This has happened on a couple of occasions. Sometimes we get no response at all. The main thing is that our journey catches people’s attention and spreads the word about mental health and suicide prevention.

The morning of departure came and we didn’t want to leave! The Cape is a place that seems to have an extreme effect on visitors. You either love it, or you don’t. We fall into the former category. It was quite warm, muggy and still as we packed up, making it a rather miserable experience.

Paul is diligent about safety checks before we leave a location with the Cub. Lights, stands, rear flap, ratchet straps, wheel nuts and bearings – he’s seen what happens when people don’t check their equipment, and is adamant that any failure we experience will not be due to lack of care and preparation.

In this case, it is bloody lucky that he checked the trailer coupling on the Legend. The nut underneath the coupling was loose to the point where it could be easily removed. That means that towing over the corrugations would likely have resulted in the nut vibrating off altogether, the coupling coming apart, and significant damage to the Cub & the Legend.

The works team at Cape York Camping arrived on their 4WD buggy with a shifter so Paul could tighten the nut appropriately. The lovely staff member then took the kids on a trip around the campground in the buggy. Well, didn’t THAT just make him the best thing since sliced bread?!

We bid our wonderful host, Sally, farewell, and headed to Bamaga for a last refuel, bread and to pick up a shifter large enough to keep that coupling nut well and truly tight.

Time to head south – awwww!

Oh no, those corrugations again! ARGH!!

The Legend of the Cape – Part 1

definitely a 4WD track – note the “no nonsense” caution about the minimum fee for recovery!


Northernmost car park in Australia!


views from the walk up over the rocks on the small peninsula
adding our stone chips to the hundreds left by others


Luna & Paul – northernmost mindDog and Handler in Australia for nearly 10 minutes!
pertinent reminder amongst some memorials at The Tip – Don’t count the days, make the days count ❤
Northernmost family for a while!
What is that? A crab? No, it’s a DJI Mavic Pro drone!!
Safe to fly in this sheltered section of beach

The plan was – make it to The Tip!

As much as we wanted to just jump in the Legend and go, we first had to have coffee and breakfast. Paul & Kirstine would have been fine with coffee, but there’s some fine print in the parenting contract somewhere that means you have to provide sustenance to the children you bring into the world 😛

Jokes aside, Paul set about preparing the Legend for the trip, not that it is far from where we were staying, but there short cut to the main road was a 4WD track, so recovery gear was a must! Treds, shovel, recovery kit, first aid kit, water and snacks.

The Roma Track is listed as difficult 4WD, and is definitely impassable in the wet. At the time that we were there, it was a great track, with varied contours, surfaces and ruts. It took about 30 minutes to get to the Pajinka Road, and the carpark at the Tip was only another 7km on from there on good graded road.

Walking over the rocks to our destination was no effort. It may have taken 15 minutes, but we had phenomenal views over the beach, and the multiple stone pyramids created by visitors. These didn’t detract from the landscape at all, and we each added a small stone to the first one we came across.

It was windy though, which meant that Paul couldn’t fly the DJI Mavic Pro. We reckon you would have to be exceptionally lucky to be there on a day when the winds were not gusting enough to blow the drone off into the Torres Strait!

Our pace along the rocks on the small peninsula quickened as we caught sight of the iconic sign at the landmark that is a mecca for so many 4WD enthusiasts and tourists. Aside from another couple who took their photos and spoke with the children, we were THE ONLY ONES AT THE NORTHERNMOST TIP OF AUSTRALIA for nearly 10 minutes!! That means that we were the Northernmost Family, and Luna was the Northernmost mindDog in all of Australia! Mind = BLOWN!!

We don’t generally do “selfies”, but felt compelled to for this momentous occasion. You’ll note that there is no such thing as a “good hair day” at Cape York 😛

There was a sea turtle bobbing in the Torres Strait seas just off The Tip, and this absolutely made our youngest daughter’s day. She ADORES sea turtles. We’ve since heard that there are a lot around the Cape at this time of year as they look for mates.

Eventually we dragged ourselves away as an influx of visitors arrived. We’ve heard that sometimes there are so many people there, that you nearly need to “take a number” and wait for your turn to photograph with the sign. It’s amazing to us that we had this stunning piece of Australia all to ourselves, if only for a while.

Kirstine drove back from Pajinka, taking the route along the Roma Track and feeling very much like a Learner Driver again! With Paul having been qualified as a 4WD instructor in his youth (hehe), he did enjoy telling Kirstine where to go and how to get there! That being said, at least she had the chance to do some real 4WD-ing at Cape York.

We were back at camp by mid-afternoon, and were in a kind of daze as we tried to process the events of the day. So many people dream of going to the Cape, and never go. To think we can now put a finger on the map and say “we were there”, is a massive achievement.

Veni, vidi vici!

Coen, Corrugations and Punsand Bay: Cub to the Cape Pt 2

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We got away early from Coen, as we’d planned to pick up some breakfast at the Archer River Roadhouse. Very tasty bacon and egg sandwiches were enjoyed by all. The coffee may have been instant, but it was strong and sweet, and just what we grown-ups needed!

Rio Tinto has an interest in the Peninsular Development Road (PDR) because of their various mining activities. They have an information point at Archer River, and while Kirstine was organising food, Paul was chatting to the Rio Tinto staff member about the PDR. They hand out information, sunscreen and pens, and are very much across all the road changes in the area. He told Paul that we were well prepared for the trip – 4WD, HF & UHF radios, driving lights, additional fuel & water .. if you are travelling to the Cape, stop in and chat to them!

The corrugations in between sealed sections upgraded from teeth rattling to bone jarring. There are unmarked dips which had the potential to launch vehicles into the air if approached too quickly. Some sections of the road had no shoulders, but a drop off of nearly 3 metres. The towering termite mounds were completely fascinating, but not to be too distracted by!

Road signs advise you to drive to the road conditions, but are this advice is sadly ignored by many. Unless vehicles on the side of the road gave us a thumbs up as we approached, we stopped to see if they needed assistance. It’s a courtesy that could make the difference between allowing someone to continue on their trip of a lifetime, and being stuck waiting for help.

Many vehicles returning from the Cape seemed to be running on adrenaline, and travelling too fast for the quality of the road. Some refused to slow as they passed cars travelling in the opposite directions, and in one stunning display of stupidity, one 4WD came around a corner sideways on the wrong side of the road, and had the gall to blame us in a UHF tirade for being on the his side of the road ….

The last 15-20 km in the lead up to the Jardine River were the most vicious corrugations we’ve ever experienced. Everyone was trying to find forgiving tracks on the side of the road, to avoid the deep ruts in the road that seemed determined to break either vehicle or trailer, or the inhabitants of these!

We pulled up at the Jardine River servo, and surveyed the landscape. Kirstine went to pay for the ferry, and listened to other travellers complain about the cost of this form of transportation. It’s not cheap, but we had budgeted for the crossing, and there are no other options to reach the other side. Feel like swimming the gauntlet of prehistoric reptilians in this infested body of water?? No? We didn’t either! Fuel was over $2/L, so we were glad we had our own jerrys. As we lined up to wait for our turn to cross, we were amused to observe a young dingo at the side of the road, thoroughly engrossed in the to-ings and fro-ings of the vehicular traffic on the ferry. It was truly adorable, and it was incredibly tempting to go and interact with it!

The ferry trip itself is very short, and we had our eyes peeled for any signs of crocodiles. It’s funny really, everytime we cross a body of water known to have crocs, we expect to see them lined up for a photo opportunity just for us!

There is something special about crossing the Jardine River. Almost like making it across a border to the “real Cape”. Our rejoicing was perhaps a little premature as we encountered even more corrugations enroute to Bamaga.

We have rarely been so fatigued as when we arrived at Cape York Camping at Punsand Bay after seven hours on the road. The simply gorgeous Sally welcomed us, and did everything to make our settling in as painless as possible. We’re sure she could see how exhausted we were, so simple instructions were definitely appreciated.  These wonderful people had donated a night in a two bedroom cabin for our first night, but first gave us the opportunity to go and set up the camper at the site they had set aside for us. Amazingly, even though they normally allocate up to four vehicles at this large site with a shelter and sink, it was only for our use.

We positioned the Cub, and did a basic set up, including checking the fridge. Not charging when we plugged into power, Paul found that our battery charger in the camper had a fractured circuit board, no doubt due to the corrugations on our inbound journey. We were too tired and cranky to start worrying about that at that point in time, and grabbed the essentials for our cabin stay.

We bought wood fired pizzas that Cape York Camping is renowned for (and rightly so!!), showered ourselves and the children, and fell asleep in clean sheets, exhausted.

We made it!